jacquemus “les sculptures”

In the world of fashion, there are shows that captivate, shows that inspire, and then there are those that make you rethink everything you thought you knew. The “Les Sculptures,” set at the Maeght Foundation in Nice, France was nothing short of a surrealist dream that came to life. Inspired by the elusive, haunting allure of Giacometti’s sculptures, this collection was an exploration of form, volume, and the art of subtlety—Simon Porte Jacquemus at his most daring and refined.  

The Maeght Foundation, perched on the idyllic hills of  Saint-Paul-de-Vence is not just any venue—it’s a sanctuary of modern art. Designed by Catalan architect Josep Lluís Sert, this modernist masterpiece is a maze of sunlit courtyards, serene gardens, and rooms filled with works by giants like Miró, Chagall, and Giacometti of course. The audience is seated around a central courtyard along with the interior of the Giacometti exhibition.

The scene is set: Marvin Gaye’s voice fills the space as Gigi Hadid steps out. What a way to open! Draped in an ecru belted coat with a squared collar, funnel sleeves, and an oversized silhouette that could knock you off your feet. This was not just a coat—it was a statement, a declaration that Jacquemus is here to play with the very fabric of reality. The color palette? Deliciously simple. Ecru, white, black, red, and a dash of animal print—nothing unnecessary, everything essential. 

Let’s talk shapes! Tubular sleeves that stretch into infinity, suits that defy the laws of physics, double-heel shoes that could only exist in a world where the ordinary is upended—-Jacquemus is obsessed with geometry, fluidity, and balance. AND IT SHOWS. Each look walked the line between the surreal and the wearable, where necklines took on lives of their own and threads escaped from suits as if they had minds of their own. It is like Jean Cocteau and Giacometti decided to have a fashion baby, and Jacquemus was the proud parents showing off his creation to the world. 

Oh, and the accessories? Let’s not forget the Calino bag—designed as a bracelet, no less! A trompe-l’œil piece of jewelry that transforms into a bag, because why not? This is not just fashion; it’s a mind-bending puzzle that dares you to find the edges. 

Jacquemus paired a snake-print sack bag with a leopard print belted coat as an ode to Salvador Dalí . . . if Dalí had decided to dip his toes into high fashion. The jacquard leopard pattern was as bold as it gets, a roaring statement that left no room for doubt—Jacquemus is here to play and he’s playing to win. 

The pièce de résistance? The faceless bride who closed the show—a vision of sculptural elegance that left the audience stunned to silence. The wedding dress, all sharp lines and minimalism, was the perfect culmination of this surreal journey. A bust rectangle and veil rectangle that drew the dress into a minimal masterpiece was a reminder that in his world, less is not just more . . . it’s everything. 

Once again Simon outdoes himself. I am constantly at a loss of words after his shows, a true visionary indeed.