JEAN PAUL GAULTIER SS22 COUTURE

2022 is off to a good start with the launch of Glenn Martens’ Haute Couture for Jean Paul Gaultier. After watching this suspenseful, yet alluring show I feel ALIVE. REVITALIZED. This collaboration is something quite unconventional for the Gaultier fashion house, but taking such a bold risk has definitely paid off.

Glenn Martens, Creative Director of the thriving Y/Project and Diesel, unveils his vision of Jean Paul Gaultier's haute couture by delivering a collection of celebration, vibrance, refreshment, and subversion. He managed to seamlessly meld his creative ideas with the renowned JPG woman — a pure diva, goddess of beauty, hips, and drama! What makes Martens’ version of Gaultier’s ‘couture fly’ is the acknowledgment that it can’t be a retread of the past glories of one of fashion’s greatest designers, but instead honors what came before and incorporates the best of himself. He took many signatures from his Y/Project brand — skirts that dangle from bodysuits, 3D metal flowers, wire-rigged fabrics, and his “seam allowance” technique — and merged them with Gaultier favorites like corsetry, sailor stripes, and Aran knits.

Now, let’s take a look at some of the highlighted looks from this astounding collection.

Look 1, a meticulously constructed long-sleeve dress of an illusive pattern, with exaggerated hip detailing and a suit-like collar, set the overall tone of the show. Models slowly walked through the dark space to eerie electronic sounds. Some gowns, like the emerald green organza above, undulated mounds of crinkled fabric, paralleling medieval and gothic styles. Glenn’s insane technical skills have my jaw on the floor . . . look at that lattice, perfectly woven coral piece (3rd look above). Studying the corset until perfection, long flowing dresses, architectural ruffles, and stripes were the acme of this show. He chose to alternate mega evening gowns, flared taffeta dresses, and the ethereal flutter of Trompe-l’oleil dresses to transform models into statues. Glenn is fearless when it comes to trying new techniques like consecutively layering tulle, threading velvet lacing, or creating new silhouettes. Precise attention to detail is one of the most prized characteristics of Glenn and his team’s work. The cherry on top of this fine collection is the bold eye looks and exquisite jewelry worn.

Glenn Martens truly never fails to amaze me and has notably ushered in a new era of excitement in the industry, the chills this show sent down my spine, wow! Hey LVMH, if you are reading this, give Glenn his own fashion house ASAP!!