jean paul gaultier ss24 couture
This season, the iconic Jean Paul Gaultier (JPG) band took an unexpected yet thrilling turn as Irish-Chinese designer Simone Rocha stepped into the role of guest designer for the SS24 Couture collection. Known for her ethereal yet grounded designs, Simone seamlessly merged her distinct aesthetic with the formidable legacy of Gaultier, creating a collection that felt distinctly her own while honoring the rich history of the house.
From the outset, it was clear that this collection was a celebration of Simone Rocha’s world. She did not simply adapt to the JPG aesthetic; she built upon it, expanded the Simone Rocha universe with the unparalleled resources of a couture atelier. The Simone Rocha woman—a figure of delicate strength and poised femininity—did not diminish under the weight of Gaultie’s towering legacy. Instead, she thrived, finding new expression in the blending of two powerful design languages.
One of fashion’s running jokes last year was that anything can be new if you throw a bow on it. From jeans to earrings to even sneakers, the world was awash with neatly tied ribbons, and the designer driving the bow’s dominion was none other than Simone Rocha. What she has achieved in her career is no joke. In what some have dubbed the ‘female gaze,’ her playfully provocative approach to design has garnered a cult following. She reacquaints us with the traditionally ‘girly’ aesthetics of childhood that feels both optimistically grungy and coquette with a bite.
The merging of two iconic houses with distinct aesthetics was a tantalizing challenge. Rocha, known for her voluminous, gravity-defying layers, faced the task of merging her vision with Gaultier’s sensual, body-hugging silhouettes.
Across 36 looks, Rocha's love for volume, blush tones, and ruching was unmistakable, yet these elements were seamlessly blended with Gaultier’s signatures of corsetry and crinoline. Exaggerated hips were balanced with puffed-up sleeves, while her go-to crystals and pearls embellished bustiers and gowns, adding a touch of opulence that felt both new and familiar.
Rocha’s creativity and consistently was essential in merging the two worlds. Take, for example, the striped bodysuit made up of loosely stitched-on ribbons, a not to Gaultier’s nautical inspired hit garments. JPG’s iconic cone-bras made a reappearance but were reimagined with a twist. She transformed them into little devilish spikes, adding an element of intelligent cheekiness that felt both respectful and innovative. The corsetry, another staple, was brought back from the archives. She breathed a new life into these pieces, blending the hard and the soft, the delicate and the bold, in a way that only she could.
The collection is a masterclass in contrasts. Taffeta gowns and sheer organza dresses played with notions of delicacy and transparency, an interplay of opacity and translucency that mirrored the complexity of the modern woman. Rocha’s women are delicate and feminine, yet there is a magnificent underlying strength—a resilience that comes through in the subtle tension between explosion and restraint.
Rocha’s work is not just a homage to Gaultier’s past, but a reinvention of it. Her clear aesthetic and motifs brought freshness as she combined her Irish and Chinese heritage into her work. This is especially in the details of her Irish crochet dipped in silver.
Tulle, a material beloved by both designers, was used to great effect throughout the collection. It appeared on ruffled bloomers, flourished on the skirts of dresses, and made a dramatic impact on the closing sweep of gowns. A few standout pieces included a buckled bodice with a tulle skirt, a Rocha red gown, a pistachio-hued strapless balloon dress, and an off-shoulder taffeta creation adorned with rosettes along its neckline.
As a younger designer taking on such a monumental legacy, it would have been easy for Rocha to buckle under pressure. However from the first look to the last, her touch was clear and controlled. This collaboration was true couture magic—with bows of course. All jokes aside, this collection was not just about bows; it was about celebrating the complex, multifaceted nature of women through two of fashion’s most innovative minds.
