jw anderson ss24

The Roundhouse buzzed with an energy that can only mean one thing—JW Anderson was about to unveil something extraordinary. The dim lights begin to brighten, revealing a runway that transformed into a space for a journey into the surreal. Jonathan created a world where reality and imagination collided in an explosion of creativity. 

The model is clad in what seems to be a hoodie and shorts, but something is off . . . in the best way possible. Upon closer inspection, it appears that the garments have been sculpted from kiln-fired clay, pinched, and shaped to mimic the slouchy ease of well-worn pieces. The craftsmanship here . . . Impeccable. The creativity . . . boundless. The clothes move with an odd rigidity, creating an almost animated effect, as if they were walking sculptures rather than wearable garments. Anderson displays a playful exploration of construction versus deconstruction, where the familiar is twisted into something delightfully strange. 

As more models take the runway, the collection’s whimsical mayhem becomes evident. An oversized bomber jacket “explodes” with feathers, while cargo balloon pants puff out so dramatically that they seem to take flight. The draping on some pieces is so loose it threatens to trip the wearer, while the shorts are quite rigid. Anderson’s knack for subverting expectations is on full display, blending child-like styles with a sense of sophisticated craftsmanship. 

One of the standout moments came with a blue crochet dress, shimmering under the lights with a plastic-like sheen. Is it made of plastic or is this just another one of his optical illusions? THe answer is elusive, much like the rest of the collection. The plastic trash bag leather-style tops and pants, stained in vibrant primary hues, crinkle and swing with each step, offering a new take on everyday materials. 

This collection was not just about creating a spectacle; it was about engaging the audience on a deeper level. Anderson’s pieces are meant to be used, misused, and toyed with—clothes that invite interaction and play. The crystal skirt, made up of shimmering strips, caught the light with every step. He does not just craft  clothes, he creates an experience. 

Anderson’s inspirations are as diverse as they are unconventional. From the streets of London to childhood memories, he finds strangeness in the mundane and brings it to life on the runway. His love for color mixing is evident in the padded vinyl pops of cerulean, orange, and lemon yellow. Later in the collection, hula-hoops acted as misplaced crinolines on knitted dresses and glittering lattice skirts were woven like a child’s paper-mâché project.

It has been awhile since I have seen a show with such a playful edge. Anderson celebrated the unexpected and took on various materials that have otherwise never been applied in such a setting. He put playfulness in pragmatism.