loewe ss24

Set in the outskirts of Paris is the stage for Loewe’s SS24 show at the Esplanade Saint-Louis, a historic location known for its opulence and significance in French history. Inside, the venue is dominated by golden sculptures from the renowned American artist, Lynda Benglis. Their gleaming forms caught the light in a way that almost feels otherworldly. The combination of ancient architecture with contemporary art creates a space that is both grounded in history and teetering on the edge of avant-garde. 

Jonathan Anderson, the mastermind behind Loewe has done it again—balancing the tightrope between commerce and creativity. This collection is full of clever twists that make you pause and then smile. 

Let’s start with those pants. Anderson’s high-waisted marvels are the kind of pieces that make you question your knowledge of proportions. It looks a bit odd at first glance as they climb up to the ribcage. Yet, somehow they are entirely wearable. The pants are paired with oxford shirts that feel familiar, but a bit off now that they have been tucked into these pants. The proportions are playful as models walk down the runway with seemingly mile-long legs and tiny tiny torsos. He calls them “micro-shirts” and if that term doesn’t conjure up images of something whimsical and slightly surreal, just wait until you see them in action. 

Anderson’s signature love of ‘exaggeration’ is evident from the opening looks, where bulky loose-knit ponchos with large ornament-like buttons are thrown over a relaxed denim. It is difficult to imagine getting much done without armholes, but who said daywear really needed to be that functional, anyway? 

Whether it is glittering floral breast pieces that sit unexpectedly against a narrow English gamekeeper jacket or cropped chunky sweaters that redefine knitwear, there is always a sense of surprise. Anderson’s collections are not just about looking twice; it is about being unable to look away. The asymmetry in outerwear—a single-lapeled cardigan, suede and leather coats that morph into handbags, and a ruffled mini skirt draping down one leg—created playful but wearable moments. 

The love affair with the everyday is an evident focus of this collection. However, this is not your typical daytime wardrobe; it is daytime with a twist, a hint of subversiveness that feels perfectly civilized. Whether it is in the form of a rugby shirt or a killer bag that swings a foot-long gold chain, Anderson has always had a knack for the unexpected.