schiaparelli fw24 couture

Another formidable season of couture joins Schiaparelli’s arsenal as their FW2024 show titled, “The Phoenix,” ignites Paris Haute Couture fashion week. It is a triumphant celebration of art, history, and unabashed drama! This time, Rosebery had drawn from a plethora of inspirations including mythical phoenixes, elegant pastries, and bold artistic references. Once again, I was left speechless. 

“People don’t buy Schiaparelli, they  collect it!” 

The show begins with an absolutely stunning black velvet cape, adorned with 3D chrome trompe l’œil feathers embroidered on the shoulders and shaped into the wings of a phoenix. It is a striking statement piece that immediately commands attention. It is a symbol of rebirth and reinvention, inherent to Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy. It is a statement, a call to embrace change, much like the phoenix itself. Egg earrings in shiny silver palladium complete the look. 

And then, the dresses! A fleet of gorgeous creations grace the runway, each one a nod to the powerful silhouettes of the 1940s and 1980s. Low ambient lighting highlights the structural intricacies of each garment, allowing the exquisite elements to sparkle on the models.

The real magic comes with two showstopping looks that employ a mille-feuille technique, reminiscent of fluffy pastries. Those fine layers of organza satin move like a dream. Let’s not overlook the cheeky reference to Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic shoe hat—a shoe artfully placed on the back of a corset, a playful twist that is pure couture genius. 

Roseberry also pays homage to artistic legends, with a sheer veil that drapes over some of the model’s face, echoing the intrigue of “The Lovers” painting by René Magritte.  

Look 10 introduces a corsage bustier dress in silver silk satin, enhanced with a swirling volume and mille-feuille of moving circles in tonal satin organza at the hem. Then, there are the feather quill styles in white, blue, and red which could be a nod to both the French and American flags. 

The spectacle continues with look 30, featuring a jacket in ecru crepe satin draped over a satin and tulle skirt with aerodynamic volume, completely embroidered with sequins. A black crinoline veil and black velvet headpiece inspired by a vintage shoe, topped with tonal feathers, elevated this look to a new level of drama. 

Mona Tougaard’s look has to be my second favorite after the iconic phoenix cape. She commanded the runway with a sheer black bustier with exposed boning paired with a voluminous green silk bow skirt. This look is a stunning contrast of structure and softness.

Daniel revels in the details, turning each piece into a work of art. Repurposed 3D trompe l’œil vintage shoes grace necklines, headpieces, and dresses. Look 28 is a stunning example of Rosebery’s ability to blend the past with the present. This butterfly-volume black velvet sleeveless dress features a tonal tulle explosion. It is embroidered with contrasted light pink rhinestones on the inner-lining, inspired by the iconic “Apollo of Versailles” cape from the Schiaparelli 1938 Zodiac collection. 

Schiaparelli continues to expand its universe. Truly a resounding celebration of creativity!