jacquemuS “Le Raphia”

It’s raining raffia!

Simone Porte Jacquemus does it again, launching yet another beautifully whimsical show outside the Paris Fashion Week calendar. After a sandy runway on a Hawaiian beach and a serpentine walk through giant mounds of Camargue salt, Jacquemus finally returns to Paris. The show “LE RAPHIA” was held on December 12th in an initially underwhelming venue. However, the minimalistic white curtains and immaculate neutral runway slowly disappeared behind a raffia rainfall. Sectioned into trilogies—three related outfits at a time—menswear and womenswear came out, walking along the perimeter of a circular, curtained space evoking a sundown situation. “Solar” was his word for it. Amidst a hay storm, models adorned looks that almost hinted at a new era for Jacquemus, a return to his roots, if you will.

A love letter to a fabric that built and solidified the Jacquemus story! A love letter to the sun! The arts! Storytelling!

To preface, raffia is the leaf fiber of the raffia palm tree native to tropical regions of Africa, especially Madagascar. These remarkable plants are the longest in the plant kingdom, so they are keen for basket weaving and mat making.

The signature Jacquemus maxi straw hat opens paired with maxi earrings this time. There is a sense of maximalism amid the neutral color palette of this look. It feels very nostalgic to Simone Porte’s early collections. This is THE ‘le chapeau’ of the season. Vittoria appears in an almost bikini-like ensemble decorated with pearl ornaments, with larger-than-life sunflower earrings peaking from her enormous hat. She walks in the raffia rain in a pair of chic black slingbacks topped with geometric shapes, a gentle throwback to the internet sensation ‘rond carré’ sandals. A long piece of fabric brushes past her leg, prompting the assumption that a beautifully draped train follows behind her. When I saw the back of this look, I was stunned, confused, and misled all at the same time—my jaw was ON THE FLOOR. Let’s just say . . . the cheekies were OUT!

The second look above is exquisite! The model appears in a more simplified reiteration of Jill Korteleve’s seasonal mini tailleur, which takes the form of a top. The ruffles are loud, bold, and brave; this outfit smells of pure optimism. Rêve d’enfant is the star fabric of this series of pieces. It is light, airy, sandy beige, and raw edge! These pants though?! It feels as though the fabric from the elegant top is bleeding into the pants, merging with dazzling silver fabric. The way the pants fall over the sand-colored shoes creates such a beautiful silhouette. Are these silver-coated jeans the silver lining amidst the raffia storm?

As the looks keep appearing, embellished sets make a grand entrance. From the yellow body-hugging dandelion full fit to the robe filet, playfulness is in the cards!

The Miu Miu mini-skirt silhouette has made its appearance yet again! I would argue Miu Miu has some serious competition for next spring. Model Alaato Jazyper struts in a patterned ultra-mini skirt and sheer long-sleeve cropped button-up with a radiant yellow fuzzy tote in hand. Show in the third image above, it seems that this season, Jacquemus swaps out its infamous Le Chiquito with maxi fuzzy totes and raffia handbags.

Look four speaks to my soul. It almost feels couture-like, yet it also works as a fresh ready-to-wear piece. It is a chic and more environmentally friendly alternative to the classic fur coat. It is a coat fit for the summer! The raffia trickling down from the ceiling seems to get lost in the garment. The movement and swaying of this garment as the model walks through the hay path is breathtaking.

Simone never fails to blow me away. What is fascinating about this collection is the fact that he articulates a streamlined story around a singular fabric. This is a VERY difficult thing to pull off.

The pink look is a beauty! The drapery is quite expected with minor revisions to traditional Jacquemus shapes. Its relaxed tailoring creates a juxtaposition of romance and playfulness. I find the composition of this piece and the styling enthralling. While the neckline is quite revealing, the addition of a matching skinny scarf and singular glove creates a covered-up illusion. The hats in this collection are DIVINE! While I wouldn’t say this would be a hat fit for a trip to the grocery store, I do foresee it making appearances on many red carpets. So far, actress Pamela Anderson has been the first celebrity to wear this over-the-top statement hat.

One of my favorite looks is worn by model Jordan Daniels in the sixth image above. Something feels familiar, but I can’t quite put my finger on it. Once again oversized flower earrings are tucked into a hat, this time a straw bucket hat. It is definitely editorial-worthy with great potential to be a cover look. I think the proportions are what led to the success of this silhouette.

Raffia is usually a daytime fabric and I find its development into elaborate and sophisticated pieces intriguing. Will it be the new feather?

Articulating a 55-look collection around one fabric requires some pretty wild creative gymnastics. We are used to shows centered around one emotion, one memory, one year, or one moment. Nobody dares to capture the essence of one fabric. Somehow, Porte Jacquemus’ talent is for humorous exaggeration and for French romance, combined with a down-to-earth instinct for reality.