loewe ss23
Loewe blew me away with their fw22 collection and I was anxious to see if they would live up to that show this season. A huge part of this collection is naturally occurring things that look like they’ve been designed intentionally. There are a few brilliant ways that Jonathan Anderson demonstrates this approach. A bold stage is set: featuring a vibrant and larger-than-life installation of a red anthurium flower sprouting from the ground of the equestrian arena, La Garde Republicaine in Paris.
Now, picking a flower as the focal point of a collection is nothing revolutionary. However, the anthurium flower is special among all other flowers.
When I see an anthurium, I have to remind myself that it is a naturally occurring object. Even buried in the soil, it always appears quite plastic to me. Anderson plays off of that assumption by rendering an anthurium in enamel. There is no disputing with these dresses that the point here is . . . BAM! I am wearing a MEGA anthurium. Loewe manufactured an object that in its natural form, looks like it IS a manufactured object already.
Model Loli Bahia has seemingly been transformed into a lime green anthurium in the first look above. JW Anderson’s propensity to push a visual idea to its absolute execution is exquisite. The anthurium or lace-leaf flower is horizontal, taking the form of a top. It is a subconscious fantasy! Anderson dabbles with the fine line between reality and surrealistic absurdity. I feel its pairing with a nude knit short-short was a perfect choice. It forces viewers to fully take in the powerfully striking plant.
The second look tones down the usage of this flower, transforming two white anthuriums into a bustier silhouette. This all-white long-line dress can be attributed to a bridal look, but with a twist. This is playful romanticism at its finest!
Another twist on this idea of naturally occurring objects used for designed objects is the balloon shoes. YES, YOU READ THAT RIGHT. Balloon SHOES. Usually, a balloon is pictured as an inflated, floating object on a string. We do not usually give much thought to them deflated, with no helium. Revealed in the fifth image above, Anderson has perfectly revealed beauty in the mundane.
Models.com Hot List nominee, Alaato Jazyper struts down the runway in a fanciful take on the traditional polo dress. It is sporty, yet structured and serious as the mini dress is paired with a pair of pumps. This is just one of the four colorways of this dress as we also see a baby pink, sky blue, and light grey version in this collection. There is something so eye-catching about this look. Is it the illusory stripe pattern? The exaggerated hips? Its scandalously short length?
Contrasting with both of these approaches to natural objects vs. manufactured objects is the futuristic digital-looking clothing. In the fourth look above, the digitally designed non-object takes the form of a real-life object. I am living for the shift from a surreal high-definition floral ideal to an almost hard-to-perceive, low-resolution pixelized garment. As Jonathan Anderson is known for reviving childhood memories, he offers an immersive take on pixelated clothing. A real-life interpretation of what we usually can’t feel, grab, or even conceptualize in a physical environment.
Lastly, let’s take a look at the fifth silhouette. At first glance, I was perplexed and unsure if I loved or hated the look. What I do admire is the construction and technicality of this dress. It appears to be hanging on invisible threads and magically floating on the model’s body. The continuity of playfulness is apparent as Anderson skillfully manipulated his fabric in ways that challenge the mind and body. His usage of this cotton-ball-looking fabric truly brings this vision to life.
Jonathan Anderson continues to crank out work that is playful and grounded in a great conceptual framework. He has done it AGAIN!!
