Schiaparelli ss22 couture

AMIDST A TIME OF MYSTERY IN THE POST-PANDEMIC WORLD, CREATIVE DIRECTOR DANIEL ROSEBERRY TOOK HIS COLLECTION “AN AGE OF DISCIPLINE” INTO SPACE CINEMA, SHOWN IN THE STUNNING PETIT PALAIS VENUE IN PARIS. SURREALISM IS INDEED PAIRED SPLENDIDLY WITH EXISTENTIALISM. A TOTAL OF 32 LOOKS WERE REVEALED, ALL REFLECTIVE OF SCHIAPARELLI’S RECOGNIZABLE MODUS OPERANDI — WHITE, GOLD, AND BLACK REMAINED THE CORE COLOR PALETTE WITH OCCASIONAL SPURTS OF COLOR IN THE FINE JEWELS AND RHINESTONES. ROSEBERRY REDUCED THIS COLLECTION BY REMOVING ALL VOLUME AND COLOR TO TELL A POWERFUL STORY. EVERY ELEMENT IS VERY SHARP, AERODYNAMIC, AND INTENTIONALLY DISPROPORTIONATE.

ROSEBERRY’S OBSESSION WITH SCI-FI MOVIES HAS BEEN ILLUMINATED IN THIS COLLECTION. TITLES LIKE DUNE, ARRIVAL, INTERSTELLAR, THE ABYSSM AND CONTACT HAVE BEEN HIS PRIMARY SOURCES OF INSPIRATION. THUS, THE OTHERWORLDLINESS AND SPACE THEME WAS BORN.

Intergalactic chic! Baroque! Vaticanseque embellishments!

Look 29 (first image above) is absolutely radiant! The Sun is in the flesh, perfectly emulated through the jeweled cage dress. It was constructed from embossed ornaments composed of hand-molded leather and gold leaf. Looking closer at the finer details, re-embroidered polished gemstones, vintage jewels, rhinestones, and anatomical resin elements bring this piece to life. Gorgeous model Maty Fall wears a dazzling headdress made from hand-molded leather, adorned with gold leaf, and dressed with various jewels and rhinestones to match the dress. The crown has the essence of Beyonce’s 2017 Grammys Performance outfit and headpiece.

The fifth look above reveals the highly complex and technical use of gold. It has been used in two ways: gold leaf on leather and gold leaf on metal. The gold rings of Saturn surround model Anita Pozzo. The juxtaposition of the structured black tuxedo pants with the hyper-feminine gold bustier is perfection!

All pieces with gold embroidery and structures take codes of the Schiaparelli House. Absolute perfection!

Daniel Roseberry’s artistic visions are unmatched. He painted all over a tablecloth for a party Schiaparelli held in New York, scanned these drawings, and turned them into 3D clay sculptures. Dozens of gold-embellished sculptures of doves, locks, and body parts make for a wildly fantastical collage of beauty.

Now let’s talk accessories!

Daniel Roseberry takes the banal and turns it into something couture. Gold-dipped baguette props, planet-shaped bags, heels with golden toes, and hats with golden brains peeking out from the top contrast the usual rigidness and structure of couture. Instead, they bring life, playfulness, and oddity to each look. There is this controlled, calculated, and precise irony—Couture Humor.

This celestial Schiaparelli Haute Couture collection was an EXQUISITE return to the runway.